It's Canvas: Using Mod Podge

Hey - you’ve made it to part two of It’s Canvas, the multipart series, where I explore different methods you can use to transfer pictures onto canvas.
You can view all parts of this series in the series overview.
If this is the first part you are reading, I’d suggest starting at the beginning, where I explain how you can prepare the image for printing.

In this part, we’ll be using Mod Podge, a glue/finish, which will bind the image and canvas together.
From what I understand, the image printed by a laser printer sits on top of the page (which is why it has this glow to it).
By adding glue to the image and canvas, we essentially make the color pigment stick to the canvas. This allows the image to remain on the canvas, once that paper has been removed.

Requirements

• Mod Podge (I use Matte-Mat-Mate)
• A laser printer
• A4 plain paper
• A framed canvas (you can buy them at most arts and crafts stores)
• A picture to print out
• A clean brush (to brush on the Mod Podge without smearing color over the canvas)

How To

Step 1: Printing out the image

Before you can print out the image, make sure to follow the getting ready to print guide from part one.
Because the image is glued to the canvas image side up, the photo is essentially flipped. To prevent this, you want to print the image flipped horizontally. You can either print using mirror printing or flip the image in GIMP by selecting Image > Transform > Flip horizontally from the top bar.
Once you’ve done that, load the A4 plain paper into your printer, print out the image, and then cut out the image along the edge.

Step 2: Time to Glue

As Mod Podge is essentially a type of glue, you don’t want to get it on your desk. Simply cover your desk with a plastic mat, old cardboard sheets, or old newspaper.
Place the printed-out image on the sheet with the image side facing up and add one or two coats of Mod Podge until you get a somewhat see-through, milk-like color. I often brush on one coat along the width and another along the height, making sure it is distributed as evenly as possible. Just make sure not to add too much glue, as it might cause weird bumps in the end.

You’ll also want to apply a single coat to your canvas, just to smoothen the uneven canvas texture. You can use one hand to hold the canvas frame from the inside by applying pressure while brushing on the coat with the other hand.
Depending on your canvas fabric, you might be able to skip this step. However, I found that it results in better surface adhesion, probably as it ensures that all the tiny gaps are filled.

Now flip the canvas with the front side facing the image and place it down on the printed paper. Make sure not to trap any air between the two, as it will prevent the pigment from sticking to the canvas.

Next we’ll be gluing the sides to the canvas. As you already covered the entire canvas and paper in glue, you can simply lift off the bottom side and slowly bend it around the edge to make sure it follows the slight curve of the canvas.

Afterwards, fold over the opposite side and then do the sides.
You will find that this will result in flaps at the edges. Simply squeeze them together and fold them around to the sides of the canvas. This will ensure that the image makes proper contact with the canvas, even on the edges, and you can simply remove the access material later (foreshadowing).

Step 3: Drying

With all sides folded around, simply run your finger along the back to attach the paper to the back of the canvas.

Then flip the canvas with the front facing up and leave it to dry for at least 24 hours.
Making sure the glue is dried is important to ensure good results, as otherwise the glue might come off later.

Step 4: Revealing the image

It’s the next day (at least for me), and my glue had about 26 hours to harden.
I’ve also moved my setup over to my window sill, as I don’t want to work with water on my desk. To protect the window sill, I’ve placed a plastic cutting mat underneath the canvas.
Next to my work area, I also set up a water jug where I can dip my fingers.

As you’ve probably guessed by now, we’ll be using water to remove the paper from the canvas.
We start off by wetting the paper on the canvas and making sure all parts are damp. This should also make the paper slightly see through, partially revealing the image beneath.
Note that some areas might take a little longer to absorb water, so leave them for half a minute or add a little more water to fully saturate them.

Soaking the paper also allows you to slowly and carefully tear off the paper flaps, without ripping off the color pigment. (Just makes sure not to rip too close to the canvas.)

To remove the paper covering the image itself, you can softly rub circles on the paper. Don’t press too hard, as it might break off the color pigment from the canvas. But if you’ve done everything correctly, the paper should slowly start coming off in small rolls.

Now that you got the rolls started, you can simply roll your finger over them to remove more material. And if that doesn’t get you anywhere, continue gently rubbing over the paper with your finger. You can either do circles or straight lines. I find that, especially at the beginning, circles are more effective at removing the first layer of paper; however, the linear motion is easier to control.
If you feel comfortable, you can try applying more pressure. This can be especially useful in parts where the paper just won’t come off.

This time I got fairly lucky, and most of the paper just came straight off, without needing to press dangerously hard.

Unfortunately, I missed that the glue on the sides wasn’t properly cured, causing me to rip off a chunk of it.
Let that be a reminder to wait for the glue to dry.

I normally do at least two passes to remove the paper, as removing too much on the first pass might cause damage to the printed photo. It also allows the glue to harden more, as it is no longer beneath a thick layer of paper.
You probably want to do one pass and then leave everything to dry, the dry paper will turn white again, making it easier to spot the sections that you’ve previously missed or that need more work.
It is not always possible to remove every single bit of remaining paper, as you always run the risk of removing the color pigment or glue. Some small white dots should be considered artistic and part of the process.
Once you are happy with the result, leave the canvas to dry again and get rid of all the paper bits.

Closing thoughts

That’s it, I hope you enjoyed the process. In case you are more of a visual learner, you can find many videos covering the process online.

You’ll probably find that the finished canvas has a matte finish to it, because of the thin paper film that remains. If you prefer a glossy finish or want to add some protection to the photo, I’d recommend applying a top coat.
I’ll share some of my experience with different top coats in the final part of this series.

For those of you wondering: This can also be used to transfer images onto other types of material, like wood.
I would recommend painting a white top coat on the material beforehand, to improve color accuracy. You will also want to sand it, to ensure the glue sticks to it and doesn’t get loose.

As I’ve mentioned in part 1, this is only the first of three techniques that I’ll cover in this series - so stay tuned for the upcoming parts.
Until then, have fun and keep decorating.