TinyFlowerpots: Making a round pot

November 30, 2025

As we are slowly entering gift-giving season. I thought we would finally take a look at the tiny flowerpots I made last year as Christmas presents.
They are a perfect gift for loved ones and also make perfect decoration for your room. You’ll also find that patting them is amazing ๐Ÿ˜.

This project has been on my ToDo list since some time in 2024.
As you probably know, it is almost 2026.
So instead of pushing the project off for even longer, I decided to split it into multiple parts, similar to what I’ve done with my ongoing It’s Canvas series.
I hope that this will finally give me the energy to make some progress.

So here we are, the first post in the new Tiny Flowerpots series.
In this post, we’ll cover how to crochet the pot itself, how to add the topsoil layer and how to fill the pot.
We’ll cover different plants that you can plant in your flowerpot in future episodes.

Materials

Names

Before we start, let’s take a brief look at the abbreviations I use for the different stitches:

This guide assumes you already know how to crochet and mostly just lists the steps or stitches required.
The stitches themselves will be highlighted in bold.

Flowerpot

We’ll start by making the pot itself, working outwards and up from the center on the bottom using the sandy yarn.
Form a magic circle with 6 loops.

A crochet disk with six stitches made from wheat-colored yarn.
An orange stitch marker marks the first stitch of the circle.
A loop is running over a wooden crochet hook.

Starting from this, you’ll want to spin outwards by first INC all around, going from 6 to 12 outer loops.
Afterwards alternate (SC, INC) 6 times (-> 18 outer loops). Lastly, do (SC, SC, INC) 6 times (-> 24 outer loops).

A larger crochet disk with a stitch marker marking the first stitch of the next round.
There are four rounds in total, one of which is from the magic circle.

To transition from the bottom to the sides, SC all around in the back loop once.
This will make the bottom corner of the pot more pronounced later.

The same crochet disk, but the crochet hook is now going through the outer loop of the stitch previously marked by the stitch marker.
On the left of it, the inner loop of the stitch is lying flat.

Then SC all around four times to form a cylinder with a closed bottom.

Cylindrical walls made of crochet loops extending from the crochet disk

To finish off the pot, we’ll add an overhanging section.
As part of the transition from the walls to the overhang, we’ll again SC all around in the outer loop only.

The wooden crochet hook has been placed through the outer loop of the top cylinder wall stitch, running from bottom to top. The inner loop is hidden by the hook and the yarn.

For the proper overhang section, you’ll want to SC all around once.

The cylinder walls have been extended, creating a line two rows from the top, where the unused inner loops are visible.
The last stitch of the row has been formed into a slip stitch, with the yarn hanging off and ending after a couple of centimeters.

The overhang should simply fold over along the last outer-loop line.
To fix it, you can SLST into the front loop, cut off the yarn 6 cm from the end, and pull it through the corresponding stitch on the second row from the top of the cylinder walls.

Closeup of the crochet hook being poked from the inside of the cylinder through the stitch below the row of half-loops.
The hook is already catching the end of the yarn. The overhang section has been folded down, with the end of the yarn running inside the cylinder now, entering the inside from below the still-unused inner loops.
The overhang extends about one-third of the pot height downwards.

Eyes

The placement of the eyes heavily impacts the character of the flowerpots.
They will also make them irresistibly cute and impossible not to get attached to.

I personally like to go with 6 mm plastic safety eyes, which I place on the second row from the bottom, with roughly three empty stitches between.
As the cylinder loops tend to form a seam along the back, I like counting 11 loops from the seam and placing the eyes in the corresponding space between the loops.

Pot with small black plastic eyes looking at the camera.
The eyes are placed roughly halfway between the bottom and the folded-over overhang.

You might want to play around with different eye placements to see what you like best.

Soil layer

To close off the planter base, we’ll cover it with a topsoil layer made from brown yarn.
As this layer has the same size as the base of the flowerpot, you can repeat the steps from above:

  1. magic circle 6
  2. INC all around -> 12
  3. (SC, INC) x6 -> 18
  4. (SC, SC, INC) x6 -> 24

Finish off the dirt piece by doing a SLST in the next loop and cutting the yarn roughly 30 to 40 cm from the end.

Brown crochet disk, similar to the base of the flowerpot.
The yarn has been slipstitched through the first stitch forming a slight bump on the end of the disk.

Putting it together

With the pot and dirt layer done, we can finally assemble them.

We’ll be using the needle to sew the dirt layer in place.
With your yarn pulled through the needle, align the end of the dirt layer with the seam of the pot itself, and push the needle through the previously untouched inner loop. (We only used the outer loop when forming the overhang.)

The small, bumpy end section of the brown crochet disk aligned with the end of the round of the base pot.
The remaining yarn of the brown disk has been pulled through the previously unused inner loop of the main wall’s top row upwards.

Now go all around the pot, pushing the needle through the inner loop from the inside and over it into the next stitch.

Close-up of the top of the flowerpot.
A metal needle is sticking through a stitch on the brown disk from the top, through the inner loop of the wall from the bottom.
Multiple loops have already been sewn clockwise of the needle, forming slightly angled yarn lines connecting the pot with the brown disk.

When you are done with slightly more than half of the loop, you can start adding the stuffing, adding more as you go.
I like adding enough stuffing that the pots are towards the hard side but still squishy and not bulging outwards.
Feel free to experiment with different amounts of wadding.

Once you’ve completed the round, push the needle back inside the pot and out through the bottom.
Loop it back up through the same stitch, so it isn’t visible from the outside, and repeat it on the top.
Lastly, push the needle back out through the bottom, slightly stretch the yarn, and cut it off.
It should automatically pull itself back inside the pot, hiding it from view.

A small crochet pot placed on a wooden desk. The pot itself is a white/sand color with a brown topsoil sewn to it on the top, slightly extending from the top of the pot.
The pot has small black plastic eyes and is slightly turned from the camera. The glow of a lamp is reflected in the eyes from above.
Typical crochet stitch patterns are visible on both the outside of the pot and the top layer.

Next steps

As explained at the start of this post, this post is only the beginning.
Over the next couple of weeks (hopefully), I’ll be showing you a couple of different plants you can plant in your flowerpots.
And hopefully, by the end of this, you’ll have your very own collection of flowerpots. Or a bunch of flowerpots to gift to other people.

You can sew on all the plants we’ll be looking at after finishing the pot, so you can safely make a few pots and add the plants later.